Best Dresses of 2009

1960's Teal Traina Silk dress...

Loris Azzaro crochet chain top...

1950's Blue Heaven...

1930's satin bias cut stunner.

Joelle models her gorgeous early 60's wedding gown.

1950's tissue silk dress in Ice, by Harry Keiser.

1950's "New Look" dress in silk. Hand made from a Vogue pattern, designed by Dessus.

1970's silk Japanese print gown by Chloe.

1930's wedding gown in french lace and silk. Breathtaking!

Devastatingly beautiful 1950's velvet gown with huge silk bow....label states 5th Ave. Tailor Shop, New York.

Dear Santa

Dear Santa,

We have been very good girls. For real. We've helped women find dresses that make them feel like femme fatales, matched soon-to-be-brides with their dream gowns, and found homes for wayward stilettos. We've even nursed two darling pneumonia-ridden dogs to health and have the credit card bills to prove it. Time for payback, Santa.

At the top of Liz's list is more Miriam Haskell jewelry. She was thrilled to have the beaded, flowered, rhinestone-spangled necklace and earring sets that she's been able to offer to Xtabay patrons, and she wants more. On the other hand, don't worry about this one, Santa. If Liz wants it for the store, she'll find it.

For her own closet, Liz politely requests a closet chock full of Adele Simpson party dresses like the green one in the Xtabay window with the full skirt and cleverly looped swags--only in her size. She wouldn't mind a version of the sleeveless black gown in the window, the gorgeous one with the outsized bow at the bustle, but for a gal with a little more pulchritude. She trusts you to select a few choice Traina and Chapman gowns for her, as well, and maybe a silk velvet dressing gown in summer green for cold winter mornings. Finally, please bring her the perfect purse. This request is from me, Santa, because I know Liz has cast far and wide for the bag of her dreams but not quite found it.

Allison's list, dear Santa, is much more simple. Basically, she wants Grace Kelly's entire wardrobe from Rear Window in her size. She also wouldn't mind some cute snow boots from the 1960s lined in mouton and some glamorous slips from the 1940s and 1950s, which she customizes into darling tops. Please bring every color of nail polish from the Butter line, too, please. 

Joanne isn't here to make her request, but on her behalf (I'm telling you, Santa, she's been very, very good) I'd like to request some velvet 1930s evening gowns, cut on the bias. I think one in silver, one in daffodil, and one in a stormy blue would be perfect. She might appreciate a Victorian dressing gown in black, too, and some 1970s chain metal scarves. If you really want to please her, toss in some 1930s and 1940s platform sandals in watered silk and a giant bottle of Jicky eau de toilette.

Amy wasn't able to appeal to you directly, either, Santa, but I'd love it if you brought her an armload of the empire-waist 1960s dresses she looks so stunning in. I think five for summer and five for winter would be perfect. She is so beautiful in sculpturally cut clothing. A few giant rings shaped like multi-petaled flowers would suit her well, too. 

For me? Why, Santa, thanks for asking. I'll take a dozen Pringle cashmere sweaters, some vintage Daniel Green satin mules, a chunky crystal Eisenberg bracelet, some elbow length evening gloves, a silky 1940s dressing gown, a dozen 1950s silk scarves in autumn colors, and a pristine 1940s Lilli Ann suit. If you still have room in your sleigh, let me know...

Hugs to Rudolph and the missus,

Your (very good) Xtabay Shop Girls

It's Officially Party Dress Season

Thanksgiving is over, and it's official: Party dress season has begun.

The invitations have probably already begun trickling in. You may even be planning your own party. You'll be going out for cocktails with friends, spending evenings at lavish dinner parties, seeing old friends at gatherings that last until breakfast, and gearing up for a work occasion or two. This is your chance to glam it up. What will you wear?

One choice is the classic little black dress. For my money, I like 1940s rayon crepe. It's made for women with curves, and it clings in all the right places. The Xtabay just landed some exquisite 1940s black dresses, some with peplums, and some with sequin decoration. The LBD is seasonless and goes to just about any type of function fuss free. It looks terrific with pumps, nude legs, and red lips, of course. But an LBD sings with red or pale green tights (choose a color of tights that picks up the color in your tattoos) and open-toed shoes. Keep your makeup modern and your hair slightly messy. My only LBD caution would be to stay away from dowdy all-black velvet outfits. Way too spinster aunt.

Mad Men has opened many people's eyes to the beauty of the colored party dress. This look is especially smashing if you can get a coat to match. Imagine a pale blue dress with a floaty chiffon skirt and a large crystal brooch pinned to the shoulder topped with a pale blue mohair coat. Slick back your hair and brush on a smoky eye. Or, try a gold or silver dress with no jewelry except for a massive cocktail ring. Those boring women in designer jeans and pointy shoes will be so jealous.

Another angle is to opt for 1980s glamour. No, not the cheap Kmart Dynasty look, but the real thing: Thierry Mugler, Guy Laroche, et al. The Xtabay has a killer black Guy Laroche suit in right right now that will give you the figure of Jessica Rabbit. I'd do 1940s jewelry with it to take it out of Falcon Crest and make it timeless. Or, add a large, modern, handcrafted choker. Purple suede over-the-knee boots would put the outfit in the stratosphere.

Once you have your dress chosen, it's time to focus on accessories. To me, the holidays are all about rhinestones and in every color. The Xtabay has a brilliant Eisenberg crystal brooch and earring set right now that should come with a "must wear sunglasses when viewing" warning. The store also has a row of vintage fur stoles that would look especially great with jeans and sweaters, and a fabulous assortment of 1940s sandals. (If you're a 7 1/2 shoe size, get down to the store, pronto.)

Here's the best news of all: This Saturday, December 5th, the Xtabay is having a party, and all day just about everything is 25% off! Come let us pull together a couple of good party looks for you. We can lead you to the dresses that work with your figure and suggest a few pairings you might not have thought of yourself. The Xtabay's secret mission is to glamorize Portland. (Crocs and fleece, beware!)

This is the season that you make an entrance. This year people talk about how gorgeous you are and see you as inspiration. You only live once. Do it right! Do it with style.

1960's Zig-Zag Dazzler!

The necklace is by Hattie Carnagie ...beware of it's potentially blinding brilliance.

Just in today, this 1960's Harold Levine chiffon evening gown is to die for!

Xtabay Eye Candy, November 2009

Time to Rethink that Handbag

What has happened to us lately? Look at the handbags out there. They're big enough to hold sleeping bags and snoozing Rottweilers. Tiny women hobble down the street encumbered by massive purses. This is so wrong on so many levels. For one, the balance is all off. Only the tallest and thinnest can get away with a big bag. For another, why do you need such a big bag? Are you carrying your iron lung in there? Finally, have you priced a chiropractor lately? Honestly. Think about it.

It didn't used to be that way. Xtabay has a shelf of vintage handbags showcasing gorgeous craftsmanship in a moderately sized structures. Many of the bags snap open to reveal gently scented, leather lining with a tiny mirror in the side pocket, maybe even a comb, and sometimes a leather coin purse secured to the inside of the bag with a delicate chain. The bags come in highly polished napa leather or real patent leather or soft-as-cream suede. They have tiny brass pegs to protect their bottoms when you tuck the purse in your desk drawer or on the seat next to you at the restaurant.

Each bag is a work of art. They settle elegantly on the arm and are plenty large enough to hold a cell phone, hankie, slim wallet, lipstick, keys, and a golden atomizer of Shalimar. If you're hell bent on lugging around yoga togs and an old banana, you can toss them in the trunk. Keep a collapsible tote for library books and gym clothes. They have no business being in your most intimate of accessories--your purse.

It's time to pare down. Think about what's important to you. Tuck a tiny photo of your Papillon or a golden lock of hair from your toddler the side pocket. Scent your handkerchief with your lover's aftershave and let it rest where its scent will mingle with the leather. Put your most flattering red lipstick and your vintage compact filled with French grain translucent powder inside. When you go into the world, take with you just what you need. Distill who you are and what you require into your purse, and leave the rest behind.

Right now the Xtabay is chock-a-block with stellar bags. Come in and find the one that's yours.

The Cold Weather Uniform

Summers are a cinch. Toss on a cotton dress and some sandals, and you're set. But what do you wear when the weather cools? What can you count on that is warm, easy, and flattering? 

I've pondered this for a few seasons now, and I'm just starting to hone in on something that works for me. For too many winters I've been caught in a vortex of plaid wool. Show me anything vintage and Pendleton, and I wore it. I had enough tartan in my closet to kilt up Edinburgh. Wool plaid is warm and easy to wear, but it just plain isn't sexy. At least, the pleated plaid skirts I wore looked less "tempting schoolgirl" than "dowdy schoolmarm". 

Since I'm a dress and skirt devotee, I'm shifting from thick plaid wool to plain wool gabardine and crepe, and I'm always on the lookout for cashmere sweaters to top it off. If it's cold, I'll add a cardigan and wear tights. Boots are de rigeur. Add a thick bracelet and a brooch, and the look is complete.

My goal is to be less Laura Ingalls Wilder and more Mad Men Joan. Oh, I'll still have vintage plaid in my wardrobe. I can't help it. But I'll do my best to choose straight-cut skirts and remember the high-heeled calfskin boots when I do.

Just today I bought a black wool Dalton 1950s pencil skirt from the Xtabay (there were more skirts on the rack, by the way, including a devastatingly sexy red wool pencil skirt and a gorgeous pale turquoise A-line). It will go with just about all my cashmere sweaters and silk scarves. It's too narrow to bicycle to work in, but I'll roll it up in my bike bag and wear expedition-weight fleece leggings under my coat until I get to the office--they're warmer, anyway. Top the whole ensemble off with one of my dozen fabulous vintage coats--also mostly Xtabay finds--and I should be in good shape.

What is your winter uniform? Do you like Levis, turtlenecks, Frye boots, and wild 1970s astrakan vests? Or maybe you're more about 1980s fold-down boots, skinny jeans, and cowl-necked sweaters? Let the rest of us know. Finding the perfect winter uniform isn't easy.

Orange Crush: John Galanos Silk Chiffon Evening Gown

Just in today!

A 1950's Galanos silk chiffon evening gown in "Hermes" orange. Imagine my delight when the daughter of a glamorous 50's fashion model brought in her mother's gown. She told me she was a model for Neiman Marcus in Dallas during the early 50's. Apparently this was one of the perks of the job. Available at here at Xtabay. It's the ultimate tangerine dream....

The Most Beautiful Dress in the World

There's an old affliction, popular during the 19th century, called the "Stendhal Syndrome". People--especially women--who saw great works of art or heard lush music sometimes felt their heartbeats accelerate and even occasionally fainted because of the beauty. I was always skeptical of this reaction. I figured maybe Victorian ladies didn't get out much, you know?

Then I saw the early 1960s orange brocade Arnold Scaasi cocktail dress and matching jacket Liz brought to the Xtabay. By God, I shivered all over. My breathing grew shallow. I didn't faint, but my pulse went from waltz to samba. Now I'm a believer.

A lucky, last minute invitation to the Oregon Historical Society's History Makers' Dinner came my way, and I had to find something black tie to wear. I knew that men would wear tuxedos, but what does "black tie" mean for women in Portland? Leave the fleece and crocs at home but anything else is fair game?

I have a 1940s gown tucked away, and although it has a few stains (it has sequin trim, so it can't be safely drycleaned) I decided to steam it out at the Xtabay, pair it with MAC "O" lipstick, and take it to the party. In the light of day, it looked a little dingy. Still, the dinner was just a few hours away, and I didn't have any other options.

Then in walked Liz with the Scaasi dream set. As a special favor, she said I could wear it to the dinner if I paid for dry cleaning afterward and made sure to protect the jacket's delicate silk lining. I stripped down in the dressing room to try it on, and as soon as I slid it over my hips, I knew it would be perfect. The dress is a strapless, sculpted brocade, and it zipped over my torso firmly enough that I wouldn't have to adjust the girls all night, but loosely enough to be comfortable. The skirt fell in an artful, centered pleat, strategically located over my stomach. No sucking in the gut required. The matching jacket--I'm swooning now just thinking of it!--has the high, tight armholes and narrow shoulders typical of the era. But guess what? I have narrow shoulders and small arms! Plus, I had a pair of gold Prada stiletto sandals at home that might have been made just for the ensemble.

That night, I dolled myself up and headed down the red carpet leading to the dinner. Immediately, Norma Paulus, a former Oregon Secretary of State, complimented me on the dress and wanted to talk about her mother-in-law's fabulous 1950s wardrobe (which I suggested she tote off to Xtabay right away). I'm telling you--every waiter, state senator, timber heiress, and security guard I saw touched my shoulder to tell me I looked great. Michael Powell, bookstore kingpin, stopped me and said, "You're in the wrong place. You look too good to be here." The head of the Heathman's catering said, "I noticed you as soon as you walked into the room". A waiter asked if he could have my phone number. I gave away a stack of Xtabay business cards on my first trip to the restroom to a line of waiting ladies--including Gert Boyle. That dress was pure magic.

And, of course, the next day I had to turn it back in to Xtabay. (Cue the funeral music). I had felt the most beautiful I've ever been in that dress. How could I live without that feeling again? How could I go out at night knowing I might see someone else wearing it? Who else would look as good in orange brocade?

I told Liz I'd pay whatever she wanted for the dress. I need it. If my portrait is ever painted again (the last time I was wearing a boring old black thing) it needs to be in that dress. I want to be buried in that dress. Give me a choice between Sean Connery circa the Goldfinger era and the Scaasi, and I'd choose the dress. It is the most beautiful dress in the world.

Now all that's left is to cross my fingers while Liz figures things out and pray that a person can't die from the Stendhal Syndrome.